METRO rubber is made from an advanced, propriety EPDM formula which has superior ozone and UV resistance. METRO's rubber products are also molded using high heat and 40-to-125 tons of pressure, which gives them a longer life and clean, smooth looks.

METRO's parts quality, and look and feel usually surpasses the quality of the original rubber parts. All the fine details of the original parts are precisely duplicated, even the details that won't show after installation. The most advanced materials combined with the latest technologies make METRO rubber the highest quality rubber parts available.

MAINTAINING RUBBER
To give your rubber that clean new, jet black look, start by cleaning it with mild soap and water. Follow with a protectant (Armorall) or even a silicone-based furniture polish (e.g. Lemon Pledge). Do not spray protectants directly on the rubber. Rather, apply it to a damp rag then wipe it on.

Some rubber will naturally bleed paraffin, which will look like hardened candle wax. Use a solvent to carefully remove any visible paraffin.

RUBBER ENEMIES
Rubber contains plasticizers that eventually "evaporate" from rubber, leaving it hardened and cracked. This is a naturally occurring process, but heat, sunlight, smog, chemicals and gasoline/oil can shorten the life of rubber parts.

TYPES OF RUBBER
There are two basic types of rubber used today in cars and trucks.

Dense rubber is harder and used for gas and brake pads, hood bumpers etc.

Cellular sponge rubber is used for weatherstripping, to seal doors, trunks, hoods and roofs. Sponge rubber varies in degree of softness from one manufacturer to the other. The greater the softness, the better. Softer rubber does a better job filling in the tiny cracks and bumps along surfaces it presses against. This prevents water leakage. Softer weatherstripping also makes it easier to close doors, trunks and tailgates.

METRO's SUPERSoft sponge rubber is the softest and most durable auto rubber you can buy. SUPERsoft has a unique closed micro-cell structure. This cell structure helps give SUPERsoft its superior softness. The material formula and secret manufacturing process gives SUPERsoft better shape "memory", better looks, and better durability and resistance to abrasion, tearing and ripping. Unlike other auto weatherstripping, SUPERsoft does not absorb water -- a key condition to completely sealing out water.

General Tips:
Popping out old, hard and cracked rubber bumpers takes little more than a screwdriver and some carful prying. To prevent scratching the surface, you may want to use a non-metal object to cushion the screwdriver as you pry.

Door Bumpers :
Align anchors with door holes and push in (Figure 6A). You may use a light lubricant, such as soap, and the handle end of a small screwdriver to push the carrot in solidly.

Hood Bumpers:
Hood bumpers are important for a proper hood fit. Match the fender slots and bumper anchors and slide the bumper into the key hole slot. Adjustable bumpers should already be adjusted to the proper height of your hood. If not, screw the bolt up or down for a flush hood.

Glove Box & Consoles:
These tiny bumpers help prevent glovebox or console noise and help keep your car from the damage associated with opening and closing these small doors. Use pliers to pull the old ones out and push in the new ones. Pulling a tail from the back is also helpful (Figure 6B).

If a plastic anchor breaks off and remains in the hole, try poking it through or even carefully using a tiny drill bit to remove it.

IT'S EASY TO INSTALL OUR NEW RUBBER BUMPERS

SO EASY TO INSTALL and so important for your car!

Our pillar post weatherstrip helps prevent water leaks, supports and firms your side windows, and helps seal out noise. It is the best replacement sponge on the market!

A) PREPARATION:
Carefully remove the old seals from your car, using a release agent if necessary. Remove all old rubber pieces from the retainer channel, using a wire brush if necessary. Wipe clean.

Watch out for the sharp edges! You may put a strip of masking tape down the sides to help prevent scratches.

B) LUBE UP:
Using a clean rag, cover the entire strip with lubricant for easy installation and adjustment.

C) INSTALL BOTTOM END:
Starting at the bottom (Figure 7A & 7B), set and install the molded end, inserting new pins into holes. Apply a very tiny amount of glue to a clean spot (clean up any lubricant) on the back side of the end to help hold it in place.

D) COMPLETE INSTALLATION:
After the bottom end is installed and all pins are in place, apply a small amount of waterbased lubricant to both the retainer channel and the back side of the seal. Now carefully pry the flange into the retainer channel using a hard squeegee (Figure 12B).

E) ADJUSTMENTS:
The exact final length can be adjusted by pushing and compressing the rubber.
The lubricant should allow the rubber to slide easily. Repeat this procedure for the other side.

F) ADD ADHESIVE:
If the ends seem to slip, clean off any lubricant and then apply only a tiny amount of adhesive to help hold the ends.

A CUSTOM FIT! Your new seal is made from our great SUPERSoft sponge. It will adjust slightly in profile after a few days to provide excellent sealing qualities. This will be done while your window is compressed against the new seal.

GENERAL HINT:
Check carefully to make sure all clips are lined up with the proper holes before inserting ANY clips in door holes. If the clips are removed or improperly lined up, the rubber may be torn.

A) PREPARATION:
Remove the old strip in one piece if possible. Remove any old anchor plugs using a pliers. Pushing and poping through any broken pins will also work.

B) CLEANING:
Clean the entire door surface and repair any rust spots first.

C) INSTALL ONE END:
On hardtops and convertibles, fasten one end (Figure 8A), placing a tiny amount of adhesive on the mounting side of the end, and a small amount between pin anchors. On sedans and trucks, start at the top center and apply a small bead of adhesive on the under side of the rubber between the two pins on either side. Then install these pins

D) EASY INSTALL:
Now simply place a small bit of adhesive to the rubber between pins on the main length of weatherstrip, push pins in and work your way around. (Figure 8B)

E) YOUR LAST STEP:
On hardtops and convertibles, your strip is made to fit exactly. On sedans and trucks, where lengths of extrusion are used, carefully cut the ends squarely to match together, allowing a 1/4 inch to overlap. At this seam, apply adhesive to the ends of the strip. Hold the ends together a moment and add a samll amount of glue around the edges to get any areas missed. Then allow the seam to fully dry before shutting the door, checking for any oozing glue.

F) CHECK:
Check your door for alignment. Your SUPERSoft weatherstrip is made to the correct factory specifications. SUPERsoft sponge rubber will adjust to irregularities in doors for a postive seal and ease of closing doors in about a week.

OLD QUARTER WINDOW SEALS should be replaced when they start to shrink, harden and crack. Wind and water can leak through. It's easy to give your car a better look with new quarter window seals.

METRO's quarter window seals are the best you can buy! With steel cores and the smallest detail, don't settle for anything less!

GENERAL HINTS:
Heavily chromed channels may cause a very tight fit when installing quarter seals. Make sure you use a light lubricant to make your seal slide easily.

A) REMOVE OLD SEALS:
Remove your old seals. You may have to remove the door jamb to get to the seals. Remove any screws at the base of the old seal. Then, grab the old seal with pliers and pull down, using firm downward pressure with your other hand or with someone's help. Do not let the chrome come off the window!

B) CLEAN OUT CHANNEL:
Clean out any rust or debris with a small wire brush being careful not to scratch the chrome. You may put a strip of maksing tape on the chrome before you start cleaning to protect it. Remove any old adhesive, using a release agent. Wipe the surface with a clean cloth.

C) APPLY LUBRICANT:
Apply a light lubricant or soapy water to the back of your new seal. If your model car did not have screws attaching the quarter seal, you will have to apply a small bead of adhesive to the inside of the channel. (Figure 10A).

D) SLIDE SEAL ON:
Slide the window seal starting at the bottom onto the channel. Replace the screws at the bottom of the base if necessary (Figure 10B) and reattach the door jamb.

A) PREPARATION:
Raise the top to a good working height. Remove all old pieces of weatherstripping from the roof rails and header. Scrape out and clean all foreign material from the roof rail frame (Figure 11A) using a wire brush and an adhesive release agent if necessary. You may need to raise and lower the top to have access to all screws and anchor pins

B) ADJUSTMENTS:
Adjust door and side windows, so that there is an even gap of about 1/2" along the top edge of the glass to the back roof rail.

C) INSTALL ROOF RAIL SEAL:
Install the driver side and passenger side long straight pieces first, then the corner pieces, up to the header.

D) INSTALL HEADER SEAL (Figure 11B):
Cut the sponge rubber seal with a sharp knife to proper length (if molded ends are not connected to side rails). Use an adhesive to bond it to the header. Trim the ends neatly to fit flush with corner pieces. Some front sections on certain cars are pre-bonded to the header. In those cases you should skip this last step.

E) FURTHER ADJUSTMENTS:
Note that the molded holes in the side rail pieces are somewhat oversized. Position the front side rail pieces laterally, so the door glass top edge enters the groove in the weatherstrip. Note: Angle of the trim on all side glass may be adjusted by inside-the-body adjustments. Please consult your vehicle manual for details if needed.

F) RECOMMENDATION:
We suggest that silicone-based or water-based spray lubricant be used on all rubber pieces where glass meets rubber to prevent excess friction.

G) TO FINISH:
Position the remaining side rail pieces as described in step E. Close the top before any adhesive dries, being careful that no adhesive drips out.

FOR HARDTOPS:
Old roofrail weatherstripping seals become brittle and cracked as they are constantly exposed to the weather. This deterioration allows rain and wind to reach your interior. By replacing old seals, you can keep out the elements, add a touch of class to your car and you will have a much quieter ride.

GENERAL HINTS:
Always start at the front when removing and installing weatherstrip. Place a tiny bit of adhesive in the channel, not on the weatherstrip.

A) PREPARATION:
Remove the old strip, in one piece if possible, by extracting the black plastic anchor pins or screws at the molded end using a side cutter or screwdriver. Pull the rubber away from the channel, using a release agent to remove old glue if necessary. Clean and scrape the channel with a small wire brush, using masking tape to avoid scratching any surfaces.

B) START AT THE FRONT:
Starting at the front (see Figure 12A), install the black plastic anchor pins or screws in the molded end, putting a tiny bit of adhesive in the channel.

C) INSTALL SEAL:
Insert the main section into the channel, working your way from the front to the back, using a hard plastic or rubber squeegee to lock the rubber into the edges of the channel (see Figure 12B).

D) TUCK AWAY:
Work your way to the end of the channel. Leave about two inches of excess rubber, using a knife to cut off the rest. Tuck those excess tow inches into the roof and quarter panel area.

On models with two molded ends, work your way to the back and install the pins or screws, and you're done.