Trupart – Parts for European Market Vehicles

RockAuto continuously seeks out new parts to better serve customers worldwide. RockAuto is pleased to now offer Trupart Quality Automotive Parts for European market vehicles. The Trupart line includes Air Filters, Glow Plugs, Tie Rod Ends, Ball Joints, Wheel Bearings, Headlamps, Tail Lamps, Turn Signals, Fog Lamps, Mirrors and more.

Trupart parts are designed to be exact replacements and are an affordable way to restore the original appearance, performance and value to your European market vehicle. Stocked in the United Kingdom, Trupart parts are ready to ship to your location in Europe or anywhere in the world!

From VW to Fiat to Vauxhall and Nissan, from Peugeot to Mercedes-Benz to Alfa Romeo and Ford, Trupart has your vehicle covered! If you purchased your vehicle in Europe for use in Europe, you can trust Trupart parts will be correct and an exact fit.

If you drive a European brand vehicle purchased in North America for use in N. America, of course we have products from separate manufacturers for you! Open the RockAuto catalog and refer to the flag ( European model for European market models, US model for US market models, etc.) in each part description to choose the correct parts for your vehicle. Remember, your vehicle market is determined by the location where the vehicle was sold, not where it was assembled nor where the car manufacturer has its home base. For example, the headlamp on a VW Beetle sold in the US market is different than the headlamp on a VW Beetle sold in the European market even if both Beetles happened to be assembled in Germany, Mexico or elsewhere.

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Forum of the Month

Riviera Performance is a discussion board and knowledge base created specifically for owners and admirers of the Buick Riviera, with a focus mainly on later generations. The Riviera Performance knowledge base consists of a vast compilation of pictorial write-ups and an extensive FAQ listing, where members can easily find information they need. In case of more in-depth topics, the forums offer an active network of members to assist in the areas of tech, tuning, suspension, interior/exterior, audio, racing, and basic maintenance.

Since early 2007, the Riviera Performance mission has been to continue compiling its knowledge base in hopes of educating Riviera owners and keeping passion for these cars alive. If you own one, or have an appreciation for these cars, please stop by and check out the site!

If you are the administrator or member of a forum and you would like to see your website featured in an upcoming newsletter and receive a discount code to share with your members, contact cynthia@rockauto.com.

Repair Mistakes & Blunders

As a teenager fresh with a driver's license, my father gave me his 1970 Buick Skylark which was well used up, had high mileage, and a questionable maintenance history. One of the immediate repairs required was front brakes as they squealed and made a grinding noise when applied.

Now, the Skylark had front drum brakes which were marginal at best for such a heavy car. I suspected that the drums were scored and needed to be turned down along with new shoes and springs. So, off came the wheel, I sprayed the drum down with penetrating oil to loosen the rust, and I tried to remove the drum but it wouldn’t budge. I tried prying it, pushing, pulling, beating on it with a rubber mallet, but it wouldn’t budge. After hours of pounding, frustration, and some desperation, I transitioned to a bigger hammer, a 2lb sledge.

Finally after repeated beatings, the drum began to loosen and off it came. Sure enough, it was scored and the pads were worn down to the rivets. The second drum removal went quicker as I went right to the big hammer.

I took the drums to the local machine shop to be turned. The guy at the counter asked a few questions about what I wanted, what kind of car they came off of, etc.

Then he asked, “Where are the hubs?”

I replied, '“Huh?”

To which he answered, “We usually get these drums with the hub attached because they are pressed on!”

No wonder they were so hard to get off! I could have simply removed the one nut holding the hub and brought the whole assembly to the store. Live and learn.

Chris in New Jersey

Tell us about your most infamous auto repair blunder or unconventional fix. Use your woe to help others avoid similar mistakes or share off-the-wall solutions that worked (at least for awhile!). Please email your story to flamur@rockauto.com. Include your mailing address and shirt size (large or extra large) and we will mail you a RockAuto t-shirt if we publish your story (see the t-shirts under Extras in the catalog). The story will be credited using only your first name and your vague geographic location (state, province, country, continent, etc.) so you can remain semi-anonymous!

Automotive Trivia

The core of a typical oxygen sensor is a zirconium dioxide (zirconia) ceramic. Oxygen ions flow freely through this ceramic after it is heated to 600 deg. F (316 C). What else is zirconium dioxide used for?

A. imitation diamonds
B. thermal barrier coatings for diesel engine parts
C. foundation for dental crowns
D. all of the above

Answer below

The Other End of the Oxygen Sensor

Oxygen sensors thread into the exhaust system where they obviously face extreme heat and harsh exhaust gases. Oxygen sensors fail when the bulb inside the exhaust pipe is exposed to lead, silicone, antifreeze, engine oil and other contaminants. Many people are not aware of the role that the other end of the oxygen sensor plays. Surprisingly, the visible end of the sensor with the wire pigtail is just as important and sensitive to contamination as the end slugging it out in the exhaust pipe.

Nearly all oxygen sensors are designed to measure the difference between the oxygen level in the exhaust with the oxygen level in the outside air. The sensor generates a voltage based on the difference in oxygen levels that the engine computer uses to continuously adjust the fuel mixture, etc. The outside air the oxygen sensor needs for its comparison enters the sensor at the end with the wire pigtail. Depending on the sensor design, the air might enter through a dedicated hole or through the wires.

The oxygen sensor ambient air inlet is likely to be protected by silicone boots, porous PTFE (Teflon) or some other means. A routine splash of water is not likely to hurt an oxygen sensor, but leaking chemicals (engine oil, power steering fluid, etc.) can clog or enter the oxygen sensor air inlet and damage the sensor. Efforts to “protect” oxygen sensors by spraying them with lubricant, covering them with insulation, etc. can backfire if the sensor’s air inlet is blocked or contaminated.

Oxygen sensor installation instructions emphasize that the entire sensor, including the wiring harness, is part of an integrated system. Routing and connecting the wires is as important as carefully threading the sensor into the warm exhaust pipe. I just read installation instructions for a Bosch oxygen sensor that had just two steps covering removing the old sensor and screwing the new sensor into the exhaust port. The instructions had ten steps covering the connection and routing of the oxygen sensor’s four wires.

The oxygen sensor bulb buried in the exhaust pipe is on its own, but you can maintain the other end by making sure the wiring harness is never torn, rerouted or covered with goop.

Tom Taylor,
RockAuto.com

This is my European spec 1992 Mercedes-Benz 190E Sportline. It has a 2.6L inline six cylinder engine with a five speed manual transmission. I purchased the vehicle from a friend while we were stationed at a US military base in Stuttgart, Germany.

All of the parts that I have purchased for my Mercedes have been from RockAuto.com. I have done some very simple work, from replacing the rear exhaust, to some more intensive work, like replacing the struts and control arms. A few other projects entailed replacing the valve cover gasket, a cracked distributor cap, calipers and rotors, and a complete overhaul of the radiator and associated hoses.

Thanks for everything!

Paul

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